JUST SAY NO...TO INGROWN HAIR!!!

Ok, so lets face it sometimes there are aspects of the beauty culture that are not so pretty...ingrown hair happens to be one of them! Ingrown hair is common and can occur at random or on a regular basis and will manifest in all different parts of our bodies where we grow and then try to remove hair. By definition ingrown hair is a hair that will curl itself back into the hair follicle, when this happens the hair gets embedded back into the skin and continues to grow, this can lead to bumps, redness, irritation and sometimes even infection.  Most traditional methods of hair removal like shaving, waxing, tweezing and threading can potentially lead to ingrowns. If any of these methods are not done well or too aggressive the hair is usually broken at a sharp tip or an angle causing the hair to not easily break through the skin and curl back into the follicle. So....how can you prevent ingrowns....first I  must say if you are getting waxed and having consistent ingrowns sad to report your wax tech is not doing a great job and you should move on. If waxing is your preferred method of hair removal be sure to exfoliate before your appointment. Use a sugar scrub, the texture will not only help rid the skin of built up dead skin which can make it hard for the hair to break through but sugar is also a natural occurring Alpha Hydroxy Acid which creates are deeper exfoliation. If you prefer to shave you can also use the sugar scrub method first, do not press the razor too hard on the skin, shave against the hair growth, shave towards the end of the shower when the steam has softened the skin and avoid shaving the same area more then once....this will only cause more irritation and bumps. In terms of treating ingrowns there are simple solutions, whether it is done at home or in the treatment room a few extra steps after your method of hair removal can help you avoid these annoying and unsightly ingrowns. Use an astringent like Witchazel on the area that has had the hair removed, this will help tighten the pore and keep the skin from bacteria and infection. In between your preferred method of hair removal exfoliating  the skin regularly will help minimize the ingrowns, again I love the sugar scrub or a scrub that has Gycolic and/or Saliyic acid, a loofah or dry brush will do...just do something! Although I do not advise popping or breaking the skin when an ingrown is out of control and infected, see a doctor or esthetician. if you must apply a warm compress for 3-5 minutes, use a sterile needle, be sure to squeeze the skin till the hair pushes itself out and apply an astringent to clean the area. Remember just like picking your face will cause marking the same applies to other areas of your body...so don't go bananas!!! If ingrowns are something chronic for you, you can always consider laser hair removal or threading as it tends to be less aggressive. Whether it is winter or sunny summer the point of hair removal is to be clean, soft and smooth...find the method that works best for you and take good care of your skin.
LOVE YOURSELF FROM HEAD TO TOE, INSIDE AND OUT....I know I do!
***just want to shout out my new favorite waxer in the Portland Oregon area, Ginny at Blooming Moon Wellness Spa on N. Killingsworth, she is a master of her craft...go see her and tell her you heard about her here!***
BloomingMoonSpa.com

THE BB CREAM BUZZ...

One of my most favorite things about this industry is the constant new fun products and trends that are hitting all year round...the latest and greatest are BB Creams! Formulated originally in the 1950s by a German dermatologist to give skin light coverage and a healing boost post surgery, BB Creams found their fame in Korea in the 1980s becoming known as "an actresses best friend" and soon became a beauty crazy among women in Asia...and now we ladies in the western world have to become OBSESSED! The basic idea behind BB Creams are "skin care meets make up" with the wonders of an SPF, the goal is to give the tissues and cells of the skin what they need in terms of ingredient technolgy to function the best it can as well as provide light coverage and protection against the sun. As I am new to this craze I have just started experimenting but have to say I am pleased with all aspects of the Boscia BB Cream SPF 27 PA ++ :)
This the perfect time of year to ad a product like a BB Cream to your daily regimen.
ADORE YOURSELF Baby Baby!!!

TO TONE OR NOT TO TONE???

When recommending an at home skin care regimen to clients they often question is a toner really a necessary step...well indeed it is! So, what does a toner really do? First and foremost if you can find a toner that is designed to keep your skin at a neutral pH or pH balanced which is roughly 5.5 this will ensure your skin is functioning the best it can, retaining its moisture and being protected from microorganisms and environmental pollutants that could cause irritation, possibly infection and even kick start the aging process! Second, toners are a wonderful way to get water back into the skin. We all have a specific balance of oil and water in our cells depending on our skin types...every skin type will benefit from more water. Skin that is well hydrated looks plumper, fine lines and wrinkles will be less apparent and the skin will have that wonderful "dewy healthy glow". Third, and the most unknown but most useful fact about toners is they help prepare the skin for the next phase of your regimen. Visualize your skin layers are like a sponge, when a sponge is dry it is unable to effectively absorb anything but if you moisten the sponge and "bring it to life" it can absorb things more efficiently...this concept translates to your skin. If you apply a product like a serum or moisturizer to skin that has been treated with a toner first the skin cells in all 7 layers of your skin are "awake' and can absorb the ingredients to the maximum giving you the best results...good for your skin and your wallet! Toners are also great to set make up and quickly refresh your look if you are in a rush.
Now how do you make a choice for which one may be best for you: this all depends on your skin type and its needs(if you are unsure of your skin type it is a great idea to book a facial treatment). Typically skin that is dry(lacking oil) and/or dehydrated(lacking water) will benefit from toners that are Alcohol free, based in water, Aloe Vera or Witch Hazel with other active ingredients like Latic Acid, Cucumber and Rose.  If the skin tends to be more combination, oily and/or acne prone look for a toner based in Alcohol(pharmaceutical grade) Tea Tree, Peppermint, Lemon Balm or any fruit acids, this is will eliminate excess oil production and calm the over productive oil glands.
There is no wrong or right way to "use" a toner in terms of application. I like to both apply it to an cotton round a swipe over my face and neck as well as spritz it all around! I will say this if you are someone who is has chronic acne and the skin is in a state of being open and exposed avoid swiping the cotton over the open skin to spread bacteria use more of a patting technique.
Here are some of my beloved facial toners and tonics:
http://www.skin-one.com/norskinlotno.html
http://www.qoriintiherbals.bigcartel.com/product/vetivert-shamanic-hydrosol
http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=319507&catid=185625&aid=338666&aparam=319507
http://www.bkamins.com/en/kits.aspx
http://isunskincare.com    ***really love all the toners she offers***
http://www.pangeaorganics.com

SUN KISSED...SEXY & SAFE!

As we approach the the time of the year when our exposure to sun is increased I wanted to share some helpful facts and some of my favorite skin care focused sun care products to help you make an educated choice. First, I will be the first to admit I HEART THE SUN and a nice bronze look, as my time in the industry has taught me that I  must stay protected while soaking up the lush warm rays. As a rule of thumb I urge you all to have a MINIMUM of SPF 30 on your face ALL YEAR ROUND, this will help slow the aging process and protect your skin against marking and hyper pigmentation. When having full body direct exposure to the sun apply a minimum of SPF 30 and reapply every 2 hours, below is a good break down of exactly what SPF is, what it does and what you should be looking for in terms of ingredients when shopping around.

Sunscreen

Sunscreen refers to products that allow the Sun's rays to penetrate the skin but filter some of the radiation in the ultra violet spectrum. The UV rays get altered to a safer wavelength and are released. The chemical interaction between the sunscreen and UV allows the sunscreen to absorb the UV before it penetrates the skin.

Sunscreen offers protection from UV-A and UV-B, however sunscreen ingredients have the ability to deteriorate at a faster rate once exposed to sunlight, hence some radiation is able to penetrate to the skin. Some sunscreen products offer no protection against UV-A radiation whatsoever. Products often contain a mixture of physical and chemical block ingredients.

UV Protection

SPF

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor and shows to what degree a product prevents sunburn. Since sunburn is caused by UVB radiation, SPF rating give no indication of how well a product will protect you from UVA radiation (responsible for skin aging and skin cancer). A higher value means you get more protection. As sunburn is caused by UVB radiation SPF is only a measure of how much UVB is blocked, not how much UVA. So while you may be using the highest SPF available, you are still completely vulnerable to UVA radiation - which causes skin cancer and skin aging. For protection against both UVA and UVB rays you will need a 'broad spectrum' product.

What SPF should I use?
When choosing an SPF rating, keep in mind that doubling the SPF value doesn't mean you get double the protection. SPF 15 will block the majority of UVB rays, SPF will block more, and anything over SPF 30 doesn't really protect you much more than an SPF 30 product.

SPF 15 blocks roughly 93% of UVB.
SPF 30 blocks roughly 97% of UVB.

Broad Spectrum

Sunscreens that prevent at least some of both UVA and UVB rays from damaging your skin are called 'broad spectrum'. When choosing which product to buy look for one which states either "broad spectrum" or that it blocks both UVA and UVB. Even though a product may display the term 'broad spectrum' it may not block all UVA and UVB radiation, check the ingredients to find out more.

Sunscreen Effectiveness

How well you are protected depends on what product you use and how you use it. If you are constantly going in and out of the ocean or pool, sunscreen may need to be re-applied after every dip depending on how waterproof it is. Heavy sweating and toweling off can also wear off a sunscreen.

Application

General instructions that apply to most sunscreens (this may be different for the products you use, so always read the instructions.
- apply to dry skin
- make sure to cover your face, ears, neck and shoulders
- apply 15 to 30 minutes before going in the Sun
- re-apply after toweling off, swimming, or heavy sweating
- re-apply roughly every 2 hours 

Expiration

If a product has past its expiration date it may offer no protection at all, and may even be harmful. Some sunscreen will last for only a few months before opening. Other will last a few months after opening, and some will last for a year or more either way. Always check the description and date on a bottle before using it.

Sunscreen Ingredients

The active ingredients in sunscreens can be physical, chemical, or a mixture of both. Some ingredients have been proven to be harmful, such as PABA. Which is why you may notice some brands stating 'does not contain PABA'. PABA was very common in sunscreens in the past, but has been largely abandoned by manufacturers because of it's harmful affects.

There are thousands of sunscreen products available, they differ in look, feel, and scent, how they rub in, but they mostly use the same ingredients. Here is a list of some of the most common sunscreen ingredients and how they protect you.

Physical Sunscreens

A physical ingredient sits on your skin's surface forming a protective barrier and doesn't have the ability to be absorbed into your skin. Light is either absorbed into the ingredient or reflected away from your body back into the atmosphere similar to a mirror or tin foil.

Physical Sunscreen Ingredients

Titanium dioxide
Titanium dioxide offers protection from UVB and short UVA radiation, but not long wave UVA. Titanium dioxide is also non-irritating.

Zinc oxide
Zinc oxide offers broad-spectrum protection (UVB and most of UVA). Arguably the best broad-spectrum protection available.

Chemical Sunscreens

Some of them absorb (soak up) the ultraviolet light as it tries to pass through them Chemical sunscreens are not immediately effective, requiring a 20-30 minute delay after application before it becomes effective, whereas physical sunscreens are immediately effective. A chemical sunscreen ingredient absorbs sunlight to prevent sun damage but is also absorbed into your skin. Some people experience allergic reactions and burning eyes when perspiring.

Chemical Sunscreen Ingredients

Aminobenzoic Acid (PABA)
PABA protects against UVB but not UVA. It was discovered to have harmful health effects and so its use is highly discouraged.

Avobenzone
Extensive UVA and limited UVB.

I am a huge fan of finding sun care products that are combining active skin care ingredients to yield a protective and maintaining effect on the face and body, these products are an especially good way to approach your daily sunscreen regimen....THESE ARE A FEW OF MY FAVORITES:

http://www.colorescience.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=brush30

http://www.bkamins.com/en/sun-care.aspx